The Hagia Sophia isn’t just the best-known tourist attraction in
Istanbul, or one of Europe’s most cherished landmarks… it’s one of the
greatest buildings in human history. This church, nearly 1500 years in
age, was once the center of Byzantine faith, later reborn as the
predominant mosque of the Ottoman Empire, and today has found a new
purpose as one of the world’s most popular museums.
We spent nearly three hours inside the Hagia Sophia. There’s a lot to
see, and all of it is fascinating. This is the kind of place where even
the floors, doors and walls have stories to tell. I’m serious: this
circular pattern in the floor marks the Omphalos, where Byzantine emperors were crowned. That massive wooden door is the Imperial Gate,
reserved for the entrances of the emperor and his family, and rumored
to have been made from the wood of Noah’s Ark. And there in the wall,
you’ll see one of the church’s magnificent Byzantine mosaics.
These mosaics have survived the centuries in superb condition, thanks
mainly to Muslim sensitivities. Human representations are disallowed in
mosques, so the mosaics were covered up and thus protected during
Ottoman rule. The mosaic above the aforementioned Imperial Gate depicts
Emperor Leo VI on his knees before Christ. There’s a wonderful Deesis mosaic
in the upper gallery, with Mary and John the Baptist imploring Christ
to forgive humanity. And the mosaic of Mother Mary with baby Jesus in
her lap, in the dome of the apse, is marvelous. But our favorites were
those of the four seraphim, God’s guardian angels, in the dome’s
supporting pendentives. During restorations in 2009, one was discovered
to have a face hiding underneath its protective golden shield.
Impressive as the mosaics are, they can’t compete with the church’s
dome: a true architectural wonder. Measuring in at 55 meters in height
and 32 meters in diameter, with 40 windows that allow in abundant light,
this dome was by far the largest ever attempted when it was
constructed. Especially with the two half-domes which exaggerate its
size, the dome creates an illusion of immense space. Standing down at
ground level, looking up, it’s hard not to feel insignificant.
Yes, standing in the center of this church, looking up at the massive
dome and its seraphim, admiring the giant Arab calligraphy, considering
the number of emperors and sultans who have passed through here, and
who have probably stood exactly where you’re standing right now… it’s
very hard not to feel insignificant. Because, and it takes maybe an hour
inside the Hagia Sophia before you start to genuinely grasp this, you really are
insignificant. Look up again at that dome. Think about how long ago it
was built, and then try to say aloud “My life has worth”. Ridiculous.
You’re a tiny drop in the ocean of human history. You, your silly
problems, your proudest accomplishments… they mean absolutely nothing.
Wow. Thanks for ruining my day, Hagia Sophia. But despite the small
existential crisis, our visit here was one of the highlights of our time
in Istanbul. Unforgettable.
The Omphalos: where emperors were crowned
Graffiti left by Vikings. Yes: Vikings
A Wishing Column
